Costa Rei: The Royal Coast in Southeastern Sardinia
While the Costa Smeralda in the north gets all the attention, there is a stretch of coastline in southeastern Sardinia that is just as beautiful: Costa Rei. Eight kilometers of unbroken white and golden-yellow sand, crystal-clear water, and a tranquility that’s becoming increasingly hard to find on the island’s better-known beaches.
Where exactly is Costa Rei?
Costa Rei is located in the municipality of Muravera, about 50 kilometers east of Cagliari. The coastline is bordered to the south by Sant Elmo, a beach with crystal-clear water nestled among unique rock formations, and to the north by Capo Ferrato, a nature reserve where construction is prohibited. This protection at both ends is part of its charm: the coastline is long, yet never feels overbuilt.
The beach: eight kilometers of options
What makes Costa Rei special is the variety along that single long stretch of coastline. The main beach near the village center is wide, gently sloping, and well-equipped—ideal for families with children. If you walk or bike further north or south, it quickly becomes quieter, with smaller coves nestled among granite cliffs.
Monte Nai is a good vantage point: from here, you can take in a large portion of the coastline at a glance. Further south lie the quieter Scoglio di Peppino, with its distinctive flat rock formation, and Cala Sinzias, a bay with more than a kilometer of fine, golden-white sand nestled between two headlands.
More Than Just the Beach
Costa Rei isn’t just about sun and sea. The inland area is home to archaeological sites such as the Nuraghe Scalas and various menhirs—a nice change of pace for an afternoon when you’ve had enough of the beach. The Spanish watchtower at Cala Pira, north of Costa Rei, is also worth a visit: you can walk there via a path leading from the beach.
North of Costa Rei, toward Muravera, lie the Colostrai and Feraxi lagoons—interconnected bodies of water that have been a protected nature reserve since 1989. It’s a popular stopover for flamingos, herons, and black-winged stilts, and you can walk or bike along the shores. A beautiful, peaceful alternative for those who want to see something different between beach visits.
In the village itself, you'll find restaurants, ice cream shops, and boutiques, and during the summer months, an evening market featuring local Sardinian products.
Best time to go
Thanks to Costa Rei’s mild Mediterranean climate, it’s great for swimming from Easter through the end of October. July and August are the busiest months there, just like on the rest of the island. Outside the high season—especially in June and September—you’ll have much of this eight-kilometer stretch of coastline practically to yourself.
Insider tip: There are two ways to drive to Costa Rei from Cagliari. The fastest route goes inland via the SS125, through the hilly countryside—it takes about an hour to get there. However, I recommend the coastal route (via Poetto, Quartu, Geremeas, and Villasimius), which I’ve driven myself: a constantly winding road with an almost unbroken view of the sea. It takes a little longer, but the drive itself is well worth it. If you’re heading to Villasimius after Costa Rei, keep in mind that you’ll actually be driving back toward Cagliari—it’s located between Costa Rei and the city. Along the way, you’ll pass a number of hidden coves that most tourists miss.
Are you still trying to decide between Costa Rei and other places in southern Sardinia? I'd be happy to help you make the right choice for your trip.