8 Days Through the Side of Sardinia That Most Tourists Never See
There’s no beach on this route. No lounge chairs, no umbrellas, no Costa Smeralda. This itinerary is for those who love mountains, villages where time seems to pass more slowly, and traditions that are still very much alive.
It's the Sardinia that lies hidden behind the coast that everyone visits.
Why the countryside, and why in the late season?
Crowded Sardinia is mostly confined to the same beaches during those same two months. Anyone who ventures inland in October will discover a completely different island.
The summer heat is over, the mountain trails are once again easy to walk on, and the landscape is turning green again after the first rains. In many villages, harvest and fall festivals are taking place right now.
The route is a loop starting from Cagliari Airport. A rental car is essential: public transportation in the interior is limited.
Day 1 — Nebida and Masua: Mines by the Sea
A day hike along a section of the Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara, the pilgrimage route that winds through the old mining area. Abandoned mine buildings stand here atop cliffs that drop steeply into the sea. From the coast, you can see the Pan di Zucchero, a massive rock just off the coast.
It's the only day you get to see the sea, and it's at its roughest right away.
Driving time: about 1 hour from Cagliari Overnight stay: Iglesias or Nebida
Day 2 — Barumini and Su Nuraxi
Su Nuraxi is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the most complete nuraghe complex in Sardinia. It is a stone fortress surrounded by a village, built around 1500 B.C.
In the summer, entire buses full of people come here from Cagliari. In October, it's much quieter.
Travel time: about 1.5 hours from Nebida. Overnight stay: Barumini or the surrounding area. Please note: You can only visit the complex as part of a guided tour.
Day 3 — Giara di Gesturi: the wild ponies
The cavallini della Giara live on this basalt plateau: small wild horses of a breed that lives in the wild only here. After the dry summer, the pools on the plateau are full of water again. That’s where the little horses come to drink.
Travel time: about 15 minutes from Barumini. Overnight stay: spend another night in the Barumini area, or continue on to Barbagia in the afternoon. Tip: Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon—that’s when you’ll see the most horses.
Days 4–5 — Barbagia and the Supramonte
The mountainous heart of the island. Orgosolo is famous for its murales, the political murals on the facades. Oliena is a good starting point for hikes in the limestone Supramonte Mountains.
If you’re in Barbagia over the weekend, be sure to check out Autunno in Barbagia. From September through December, a different village opens the courtyards of its old houses every weekend. There, you can sample local bread, cheese, and wine and see crafts you won’t find anywhere else.
Travel time: about 2 hours from the Giara. Overnight stays: Oliena or Orgosolo
Days 6–7 — Ogliastra
Two nights at an agriturismo near Baunei or Ussassai. You’ll eat whatever the land has to offer, in villages where tourists rarely venture.
Near Ussassai are the Piscine Naturali: natural pools in a riverbed in the middle of the mountains.
Travel time: about 1.5 to 2 hours from Oliena Overnight stay: agriturismo near Baunei or Ussassai
Day 8 — Back to Cagliari
One last drive through the mountains back to Cagliari. If you still have time before your flight, take a walk through the Castello neighborhood for one last view of the city.
Travel time: about 2 hours from Ussassai
Insider tip: Fill up your tank before driving into the interior. Gas stations in the mountains are far apart, and on Sunday afternoons, they often accept payment only via a payment terminal. Also, download offline maps: in the Supramonte and Ogliastra regions, cell service frequently drops out.
Not sure how to combine an inland route like this with the rest of your trip through the south? At Sardegna Autentica, I’d be happy to help you plan and put together a customized itinerary, including advice on what’s open and what to do during your trip.